The Americana Morenaza en Colombia~ Summer in Cartegena

Cartegena
After we left Medellin in the wee hours of the morning, we found ourselves waking up in Cartagena. Cartagena is definitely a place that many tourists visit while in Colombia. Honestly, I remember sleeping on the plane and somehow waking up long enough to collect my baggage to jump into a taxi and go back to sleep. The distance from Medellin to Cartagena was only about 2 hours but we were exhausted. We had just spent the previous night partying with Juan and arrived to the airport in the nic of time to catch the flight. While we were in the taxi, Max bumped me and said, "look Tiffany, this place looks like Miami".  I opened my eyes long enough to say, "umm hmm" and I was back off into sleepy land.

Our view from the apartment
When we arrived at our Airbnb apartment, I was quite sad this time. We had had such a wonderful experience with Juan and he had such a nice home that I had high expectations for the last stop... nope... there was no comparison. We were greeted by two very sweet ladies who gave us big hugs when we walked in and then they showed us to our room. I tried to join them in civilization, however my body refused and I politely excused myself so that I could go and finish off my sleep. I remember laying across the bed and sleeping for what felt like 8 hours.
Lunch with our hostess

When I woke up, Max was already busy looking at maps and finding things for us to do. We were invited to come and have a nice Colombian lunch with the two of them. We sat around at the table with our broken Spanish trying to be cordial but thanks God for Max's translate app... it was definitely a God send.


At the Walled City
After lunch, Max and I got dressed and headed out. Cartagena did look a lot like Miami and we were in walking distance to almost everything. We walked the boardwalk near the beach and it was a beautiful sight to be seen. The first place we visited was the Walled City. Cartagena has a huge fort area which dates back to an era where there were slaves and many other things being imported and traded in and out of the area. Just being there, you could feel an odd feeling as if you were back in time. There were people who were selling many different things on the streets: necklaces, bracelets, purses, clothing, shoes, crafts... clearly the spirit of trade never left! We found ourselves at a nice restaurant called Cafe del Mar but we only sat down for drinks and after we went searching for food.

Walking through the Old City

On the boardwalk


While we were walking, we were approached by a guy named Joseph. Joseph didn't look any different from Max and I, he could of easily been mistaken for a relative. Because we had lost the battle of finding many English speakers, at a certain point, we stopped looking. Shockingly, Joseph approached us speaking in English. He asked us if were were interested in eating and handed us several menus to many of the restaurants. Our attention shifted because performers started salsa dancing and putting on a show. I mean these folks were gettin' it! Boom... boom.. boom.. boom.. boom.. boom. One thing that we noticed right off the bat was that folks in Cartagena were much darker than the folks in Bogota and Medellin. In the beginning of the trip we felt like outcasts in Colombia, now... we felt right at home. What's more sexy than a chocolate muscular man speaking in Spanish and moving his hips to Salsa music... boom... boom... boom... boom... boom... YESSSS!


Oh sorry... Joseph... so Joseph approached us speaking in English... we decided which restaurant we wanted to eat at and we sat down. Joseph sat down with us. Max and I were very interested to know how he learned English so we asked... "how did you learn to speak English so well"? We were waiting to hear him respond with a story of living in the states or some school he had attended but all he said was, "I speak many languages: English, Spanish, French, Italian...", I said ooohhhhh... " so you speak MONEY!" The first time I met a guy like Joseph was in Morocco and he was a Moroccan man who could speak many languages as well... including Japanese! Neither of them went to school to learn the languages, they just listen closely when they are dealing with many different tourists from around world. They study language because language allows them to communicate with people and communicating with people allows them to offer goods and services and offering goods and services creates revenue and revenue is what... HELLO!! We all know how much money talks! I love it! We were laughing and joking when he mentioned that many people in Cartagena go to the countryside to watch cockfights... then he asked us if we wanted to go and see one. Max was so surprised to hear about chicken fights and had no idea that something like that even existed. It's a brutal brawl that I had no interest in entertaining so we politely said, "no thank you." That's one thing I can leave Cartagena without seeing and I'd be completely fine with that.




The next morning we woke up with plans to go to the beach. Max and I went to have lunch at what ended up becoming the highlight of our trip... Crepes and Waffles.
That restaurant was AMAZING! OH my goodness... they have a huge variety on the menu where you can order almost anything and they'll throw it inside of a crepe... chicken, beef, cream of broccoli soup... whatever you want... in a crepe! I absolutely loved this place... well WE absolutely loved this place.

After lunch, we headed to the beach. On our way, we bumped into this guy named Eddie. Eddie said he was from Texas but he was mixed with Venezuelan and Mexican. He spoke English so we all instantly bonded. Eddie's crazy self confessed to us that he had been drugged and robbed the night before so we ought to be careful while we were in Cartagena. Supposedly, there is a drug that you can slip into someone's drink or wipe on someone's skin that causes them to lose control. Eddie said you don't lose consciousness or anything, you just do things that when you wake up the next day,  you have no idea of what you did... I sound silly rereading what I just typed... well Eddie said it happened to him so I figure... why lie to me? He said he was drugged and robbed by some man and woman and he had a police case pending... well anyway... we bumped into Eddie on our way to the beach. He instantly started feeling Max and he wasn't going far from anywhere that she was. Max had brought her Beats Pill speaker and we were jamming on the beach. Drinking and singing to the tunes of Marvin Gaye, James Brown and his cousin... Chris Brown... LOL! We had so much fun. We stayed at the beach until sunset and then headed back to the apartment. We agreed to meet up with Eddie later on that night so that we could go out together.




Sadly it was a bad night to be out in Cartagena and we ended up sitting in a bar by ourselves. After a few drinks we walked over to the Walled City and saw a whole bunch of people sitting outside "people watching"; we decided to join them. There were actually many people to watch: prostitutes, pre-surgery, post-surgery, old, young, tourists, drunks, sobers... there were many. At that point, the both of us were beginning to get annoyed with Eddie's ass. He had turned into a bickering little girl and his disagreements and lectures were bad business for our night out... oh and the sorry sob story about him being drugged led into a story about his wallet being stolen which lead into Max and I paying for his drinks... so that made it even worse because nobody wants a sober around people who are drinking. Brotha... you shouldn't have a worry in the world. While we were sitting, a woman named Farrah approached me and said, "I can look at you and tell from the way you wear your hair and the way that you dress that you aren't from here... where are you from?" I was shocked that she was speaking in English too... I told her and she shared that she lived in the states as well.

Max started to get bit by the Salsa bug again and she was ready to dance so her and Eddie decided to. She got up ready to show off her Salsa lessons that she had devoted so much time to perfecting while Eddie got up and did some jig that Max was not vibing to... FAIL. They must have a different Salsa in Venezuela... but of course Americans call anything Salsa dancing! Minutes later, Farrah brought over her Colombian friend and he and Max went inside one of the Colombian Juke Joints and danced the night away... Eddie... was... PISSED! He was fuming with jealousy and envy to the point that it was seeping out of his pores. He even got up and went to peek inside to watch Max... I knew it was time to call this man the five letter word... C R A Z Y! When Max returned, she didn't make it any better by saying how well of dancer that guy was and how he was so good at Salsa... Eddie was looking like he was ready to go to war.. like there was about to be a Salsa battle kick off in the middle of the streets. I blame Max though... a perfect example to the song... I heard about this girl her name was Maxine... a dunna dunna dun ta dun... and if I ever tell you bout Maxine, I oughta say I don't know what I know but murder she wrote... murder she wrote... of course I don't know the words... but that's HER! It was time to go before any blood was shed.

The next morning Max and I decided to do a boat tour. There are boats that would take you out to the islands where you could spend the day touring or simply relaxing on the beach. That was right up our allies! The tour was fine but we were more interested in the MEN. These chocolate brothas were clearly from a different breed. They were muscular, their hair was curly, their voices were deep, and their Spanish was sexy...

Max's boo... Mr. Chocolate!
Colombian "Chocolateness"
Max was in love with our tour guide! Her and I kept giggling at everything that he said because she wanted to fold him up and take him home in her suitcase. I remember Max was trying to talk to him at one point.... in so many words, she was trying to tell him that she would teach him English if he would teach her Spanish... of course I chimed in with the most broken Spanish and said, " es de clase de Espanol en tu casa or no?" Max and I busted in laughter and so did a few other people on the boat. The funniest thing was when we docked on the beach, Mr. Chocolate personally walked us to some secluded part where people could lie down on beds instead of beach chairs... I told Max "girl he is trying to lay in this bed with YOU!" That's why he took us over there! We politely said no and went to find two chairs so that we could lie out in the sun. He was a cutie though.

Hotness... 
When we got back that night, the both of us were exhausted. It was my last night and I was scheduled to leave the next morning. I had to head back to Bogota to fly from there back to the states. Max had two more days before her departure. We decided to end my trip with dinner at Crepes and Waffles. It was as good as it was the first time. I had a wonderful time in Cartagena as well as Colombia as a whole. I would definitely say that Medellin was my favorite and I have had thoughts about making my way back there. Colombia... you have been wonderful and the memories that we shared with you will be in our Morenaza hearts forever.

Besos

Life at the beach...






The Walled City
Beach Pic... 

Max at the Fort

Watching the sunset... 

Dos Americana Morenazas! 






The Americana Morenaza en Colombia~ Spring in Medellin

Max and I arrived in Medellin around 11pm. She booked our Airbnb apartment this time and had briefly mentioned that there were a few things that made her skeptical about the booking. The man had only recently posted a private room for rent and Max and I were to be the first to stay with him. There were no reviews to vouch for his credibility as a Lister, however Airbnb does have secure bookings. If something happened, both parties would have been covered. Max assured me that there was something special about this guy and the apartment that made her go through with the booking...both of us were nervous though!

Juan was scheduled to pick us up from the airport upon our arrival. We got off of the plane and headed to the pick up area but we didn't see anyone holding our names; he was a bit late. After waiting for about five minutes, an older, gray haired, timid man approached us... Maxine? I instantly started praying... Lord please don't let this be a crazy man and please don't allow him to do crazy things to us... Lord please cover us while we are here in Medellin... I was praying while thinking...what has Max gotten us into? The both of us looked at each other and hesitantly started walking toward the car. Max whispered to me... "should I get in the front seat"... HECK YEAH... cause I knew I wasn't! When I got in the back seat, I noticed that there was a hammer in the seat pocket... I instantly thought....if he tries anything, I'm gonna WHACK him! We told him how hungry we were so he insisted on taking us to a local joint that had authentic Colombian food. We instantly agreed.

Juan's English was not so great...but neither was me and Max's Spanish. The beginning was very timid for all of us but as we sat and laughed at each other's horrible second language...we eventually loosened up. We ordered our food and even though I only had a veggie wrap...the food was GREAT! Because I stopped eating pork and beef, I looked on the menu for something that wasn't too heavy and that was also meatless... Max went right for the opposite. After Juan explained to her what she was eating, she almost choked on her pig meat and rice soaked in pig's blood! Juan finished what she didn't eat though, after he ruined her appetite...I guess she had a true Colombian cuisine! After we ate, we headed to the apartment. We were warming up to each other after dinner, however we were still skeptical about the apartment. I was still silently praying...

When we arrived to the apartment... we... were... amazed... It was absolutely beautiful. There was a balcony with a hammock...the master bedroom had a breath taking view of the city...the bathroom had a vaporizing steam room...the kitchen was modern and stainless steel everything...the set up was perfect...or at least perfect enough for two beautiful ladies traveling in Colombia.
Our view from the bedroom
night view from the balcony
Because I had been living out of my carry on luggage for ten days, the first thing I wanted to do was wash my clothes. Juan showed me to his "all in one" washer and dryer combo and I was a happy camper. Once I had my clothes in the washer, I was super excited about getting in that steam room. He showed me how to add eucalyptus to the vaporizer and I sat in there for about thirty minutes. I could only imagine the future of coming home after a long day of work and simply sitting in tranquility. It was lovely. Juan made sure we didn't need anything and we all headed to bed.

Juan's orange tree
Many of you that know me personally know that I love to sleep... especially on vacation. I am not a "wake up when the rooster crows" kind of traveler... I sleep in! The next morning I remember waking up to two things...1. The sun was shining beautifully into the room and when I opened my eyes I could see the panoramic view of the city in such a way that I had thank God for my existence and 2. Maxine and Juan in the kitchen cracking up laughing while Max embarked in her first Spanish lesson. She came in the room...of course disturbing me...asking me, in Spanish, if I wanted a cup of coffee...in order to keep up with Max, I NEEDED a cup of coffee! I hugged Juan good morning and sat around observing the rest of their lesson while I sipped on some fresh brewed tinto.

After we dressed, we were ready to hit the Medellin streets. Juan lived in such a prime location that we literally had to walk around the corner to find all of the restaurants and places that we were looking for. We found a sushi spot called Basilica and sat down for lunch. Max ordered her margarita and I ordered the same. Max and I sat around talking about life for hours. It's amazing to travel with great people because the dialogue never ends. While we were talking, I noticed that the waiter was giving me some extra special attention...of course he was flirting...I mean who wouldn't flirt with a morenaza!! Knowing me... I entertained it and before we left, he left me with a nice friendly kiss on my cheek! Mwah!
Max and I went back to Juan's and decided to get dressed for a night out in the town. Max was looking for a place with great salsa music. Sadly, all we found was a place called Babylon with lots of drunk college kids and adults that forgot their manners at home... Fail!









We had already decided to go and see the top of the mountain the next day. It was quite an adventure because in order to get there, we had to take the train to the metro car, the metro cars to another set of metro cars, and then take that to the top. The view was incredible. The most interesting part was looking down on the slum houses below.

The community underneath was full of man made homes with no doors or windows and it was miles long. When we got into the car to take us up to the mountain, Max and I thought we would be riding by ourselves. A guy named Wilson ended up joining us in the car and he rode to the top of the mountain with us. As soon as we got in the car, we approached the end and took off like a roller coaster. As we screamed, Wilson agreed with our frightened response and began to laugh. Wilson was from Bogota, however he worked in Medellin; he was our Colombian Morenazo! This was another encounter when our Spanglish saved the day!

Wilson was amazing... the three of us walked around together for a while and then stopped to have lunch. We ordered a small container of Aguardiente, which is a Colombian liquor and of course I had a beer. The liquor actually tasted like a black jelly bean...which is the worst flavor of the bunch. Max and Wilson enjoyed it, but I didn't. That was definitely a man's drink. We sat around talking and laughing and enjoying our evening together. I  was able to get a few Spanish lessons in that time! We talked about life, school, English words, and Spanish words... Wilson was truly a sweetheart and we will remember him forever!

After we left the mountain, we headed back to Juan's house to get dressed for the night. Juan was out with his friends already and sent an invite for us to join him. We met him at a place called The Social and sat with him and his friends. They were as cool as he was. We drank and laughed all night. We ended up going to what looked like a big mall after that.There were many night clubs inside and we went to one called Rio Sur that had a live band. When they started to play salsa music, Juan and I danced the night away. He taught me some real Colombian moves! We didn't leave that place until about 3am and we had to be at the airport by 5am.

When we got back to the house, Juan and I turned up the music and kept the party going. I started cooking breakfast and Juan kept dancing and singing while Max laid asleep on the couch.

After a while, we ate our breakfast and Juan called us a taxi to go. He pleaded that we stay but we had to go to the airport so that we wouldn't miss our flight to Cartagena. Even after we left his house, we continued to talk about our experience with him.

Although Medellin started off a little scary, Max was completely right about that "something" that made her go through with the booking. Juan is definitely a man that Max and I will remember and remain in contact with forever. He welcomed us in his home and treated us as family. He is a wonderful person and has already spoken into existence that my next contract will be teaching at the American School in Medellin. We laughed and partied and truly enjoyed his company. Rest assured knowing that if we ever go back to Medellin, we definitely have a place to stay.

My Medellin cerveza
Thank you Juan for being such an AMAZING host and thank you Medellin for such a wonderful experience...

Our view from the metro car
Besos


A distant view of the slum houses... very beautiful!

The bar tender pouring my Club Colombia!


Max and I at the top of the mountain





The Americana Morenaza en Colombia~ Winter in Bogota

Buenos Dias from Colombia!

First,
I want to introduce you all to Max. Traveling to Colombia was my second trip with her. We met each other in Amsterdam last year and that trip was absolutely "amazeballs" (in her voice)! Tell me about the perfect qualities that someone should have in order to be a good traveling buddy and I will tell you that you are describing Maxine! Her and I met in university about eight years ago. We both went to NIU; she is my soror as well as a really good friend.

 I ended up finding a very cheap flight from Miami to Colombia and paid $180 to get to Bogota. Our plan is to visit Bogota, Medillin, and Cartegena. Because this was truly meant to be an adventure, we decided not to stay in the typical hotels. We ended up booking apartments on Airbnb and staying with local people who lived in the cities. We had our plan and on July 21st, we met in Bogota.

In Bogota we stayed with a very cute couple, Juliana and Juan. The both of them had just finished their own traveling adventure and were just returning home from Brazil. They spent an entire month traveling around Brazil following the World Cup fútbol games. When I arrived, it was about 1am and they stayed up telling me all about it. Shockingly, the rumors were true... Brazil wasn't quite ready to host the amount of people who intended to join them for the World Cup. The both of them told stories of how it was very difficult to find places to stay while there. One night, they found themselves in a horrible home with a box spring for a mattress... and the springs were bursting out. They said they spent about $200 a night there and couldn't dare to sleep on the bed. They rested on the couch until the next morning when they left to find other housing. Regular hotels were running for close to $1000 per night and even motels had the nerve to charge $600 per night. After hearing their stories, I was happy that Max and I decided to go to Colombia instead. They enjoyed being in the stands watching the games though; especially with how well Colombia was playing! I'm sure it was an opportunity of a lifetime.

Max arrived a little later than I.  The next morning we woke up and started exploring the city. I was a little skeptical because it reminded me so much of Casablanca... loud, crowded, and dirty,... loud, crowded, and dirty...did I mention Bogota was loud, crowded, and dirty? Before we went to bed, Juan told me what streets to avoid when we went out for our walk, however... I forgot. Thanks to me and my fabulous sense of direction, we ended up walking right into the "hood." I was scared... Max was walking around like there was no problem. I was trying to look like a dang local but she had TOURIST written all over her... iPhone out, most expensive jewelry blinging, talking loud... in English, those folks ain't speaking in English...we looked like targets! The craziest thing was walking to a corner where everything changed. Right across the street, we started to see other people that looked like us (no not Black folks!)... Tourists! The restaurants were nicer, the buildings were in one piece, the people looked well groomed... it felt safe. 

During our walk through the neighbor "hood", Max noticed some really cool rings that a man was making on the street. We approached him with our broken Spanish and began asking how much he was selling them for. Because he was actually making the rings, we ended up spending about two hours with him. Bernardo was making the rings and his friend Charlie came to chat with us while we were sitting. They were speaking in broken English and we were speaking in broken Spanish. I was so proud of myself  because I learned Spanish in high school about twelve years ago. I found out that it was still in my brain after all of those years. It was nestling between my inspiration to speak French and my anger in not understanding Arabic. The funny thing is... I've been to Spain... plenty of times... and my high school Spanish was useless there! In Colombia I felt like I knew how to speak another language! Charlie and Bernardo were cool and we had a great time chillin' with them.

After Max's purchase, we went to Masserati mountain. We took the teleferico to the top and saw a beautiful panorama view of the city. We randomly decided to take Charlie with us, Bernardo's friend. He said he hadn't been there in many years and he was very grateful that we had invited him to come. Bogotá is a beautiful city... especially at night!

Bogota was cold and rainy but the next day we we still decided to do a bike tour. There was a small group of us: four girls from Ireland, two guys from Germany, Max and I from the United States and Fernando (our tour guide) from Colombia. We hopped on our bikes and rolled out. Fernando took us to different places in the city that we would not have been fortunate to see on our own. He took us to a few different hoods. One in particular, Fernando said, "put your cameras away, hold on tight to your bags and don't stop until I tell you it's safe." Max is from Chicago and I'm from Dooley Drive so if we needed to use our street smarts and get "rough and tough wit our afro puffs"... that wouldn't have been a problem at all. The difference was amazing though...old houses, people sleeping on the street, trash everywhere. We made it safely though...aannnd we didn't have to knock a sucka out!


Bogota has a lot of history and there are many political things happening in the country. There is a history of corruption, drugs, prostitution...you know..the norm! Of course when our tour guide started discussing education, my ears were wide open. Like many other countries, there is no law or mandatory expectation that children need to go to school. Fernando said that there is no free education in Colombia. If a family wants their child to go to school then they have to come up with the money to pay the tuition. Of course there are "great" schools but not everyone can afford to send their children to them. Because there is a huge economic gap, families that can afford to send their children to school do and families that can't afford it, send their children to work. I'm sure there are plenty of labor jobs that don't require an education, however I assume that the problems of drugs, prostitution and mindless labor is dominant because of the lack of investment in education. Many children don't have the opportunity to go to school...so I'm not shocked that the little boy who was on the street trying to convince us to buy a necklace and a purse was only fifteen years old.

One consistent thing about being in Bogota was that Max and I were constantly getting all kind of stares from everyone. We were unsure why though. We didn't know if they thought we were prostitutes or if they just weren't used to seeing dark skinned people. We were told that there were many dark-skinned Colombians in the north so we assumed that they would be accostomed to seeing people like us.

During our bike tour, Fernando was explaining the history of the railroad track while I was taking pictures and looking at my camera. I just happened to look up and there was an older man standing right next to my bike staring down on me. I looked at him and said, "hola" and then he started speaking to me in Spanish. Because everyone was always trying to sell us stuff, I automatically said, "no gracias" but he kept talking. Then I noticed that he was speaking in like a suave...casanova type tone of voice. I thought to myself... I know this brotha ain't tryin' to hit on me. He stood there a second more which confirmed that he was. 1. We were on the bike tour with helmets and bikes and 2. He was about 60 years old!! I just remember yelling out... "Fernando... Help!" Fernando said something to him in Spanish and then looked at me like it was my fault. He told me to scoot my bike in with the rest of the group... I guess... I... just... didn't... look... like... I... was... with... the... group??????

 Later when the tour was over I asked Fernando if that guy thought I was a prostitute. He said "no, the guy was asking where I was from because he had never seen anyone so beautiful." He said to me, "he was well dressed"... I guess that was supposed to convince me to be interested in a one hundred year old man... so basically I should have let him take me out to dinner! He said when men think certain women are "very" beautiful, they refer to them as a "morenaza." Of course that got to my head... I guess I am a morenaza... I can dig it! I thought about getting back on my bike and going to find him...a Colombian sugar daddy doesn't sound all that bad!

Thanks for the wonderful time Bogota... Max and I are heading to Medillin...

Max's bike caught a flat tire...
Besos

In the coffee shop with Fernando

Sipping on some good 'ol Margaritas! 

Bogota...

Ruff Ryders... Taking over the streets of Bogota!



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